Mention Madagascar in 2008 and most people will think of the animated movie starring Chris Rock as a Zebra and some wacky lemurs. Nature lovers might be able to recall that Madagascar possess’ an amazing biodiversity of both plants and animals, especially those funky baobab trees and a score of chameleons. What most people don’t know is that Madagascar also has a rich human history with a mix of Indonesian and African Bantu cultures influenced by French Colonialism. With so much to choose from, Madagascar can seem like a photographer’s Promised Land.
Getting there
Traveling to Madagascar is relatively easy. Three gateways lead to the capital city of Antananarivo (you’ll find that Malagasies love their vowels): Singapore, Johannesburg and Paris. Paris is by far the easiest route for most travelers who begin their travels either in North America or Europe, and having a layover in Paris is anything but a hardship. A twelve hour flight from France disgorges you at the Ivato airport on the outskirts of Tana around midnight and into the arms of waiting taxi drivers, tour guides and various porters. Visas can be purchased at the airport if you’re a procrastinator, and customs is a relatively easy transition. If it is your first time in a developing nation relax; allow the “lines” to flow around you, and enjoy the show. You’ll get out eventually. It’s best to have prior transportation arranged with your hotel in Tana to ease the stress of a late night arrival and to avoid exchanging money at the airport.
Stepping outside, you are immediately hit with the smells of Madagascar’s largest city (approx. four million residents). A heady mix of earth and burning charcoal, diesel fumes and, if you’re coming for the rainy season, the damp. The ride from Ivato to the core of Antananarivo takes twenty minutes and for first timers is disorienting. Warrens of houses and cross streets, shanty towns and rice paddies vie for your attention as the warm glow of cooking fires flicker from behind slatted walls and curtains.
Suddenly you’re in Tana and for most tourists that means French Colonial architecture. Madagascar was a French colony for sixty three years and its influence still shows in many of the public works and fancier hotels (The Colbert for breakfast pastries and espresso is wonderful after a few weeks in the bush). French is also the official language of government and one of two official national languages (the other being Malagasy, but with twenty-one different ethnic groups the dialects can be quite different). If it is your first time travelling to a developing nation, paying a few extra dollars for a well known hotel is worth the piece of mind. Like every large city there are streets you just don’t want to be on at night, alone and obviously foreign. Get a good night’s sleep; charge your and your camera’s batteries and dream of the adventures you’ll be sure to have tomorrow.
Photographing People
Antananarivo has a wealth of opportunities for “Street Photography” and for the most part the Malagasy are tolerant of photographers. A quick wave of the hand or a shaking of the head will indicate when someone really doesn’t want their picture taken. In recent years, demands of money for pictures has increased in popular tourist spots. Simply deleting the photo is usually enough to halt any bickering. If you’re planning on photographing vendors, and most people on the street in Antananarivo are selling something, consider buying a small item to open the lines of communication (this is significantly harder to do if you’d like to photograph the many butchers in town). Don’t forget you’re in an African/Indonesian culture so haggling is expected.
Although many people in the capital city speak some English it is far more common for French to be used in conversation. If you’re fluent in French your trip to Madagascar will be much richer than for Anglophones who would be advised in picking up the basics of conversation and food - seriously, I can’t keep crevettes and cerveau straight. If you’d really like to impress the locals try out a little Malagasy on them, it will usually bring out a smile or, if you’ve really butchered it, outright laughter. “Salam” is Hello, “Misaotra” is Thank-you, and “Matsiki” is Smile (although it can be hard work to get anyone but children to smile for a photo). If you’d really like to be polite in your photography point to your camera and ask “Azafady” (Please) before taking someone’s picture.
At more than a kilometer in elevation, Tana can be cool on overcast days and downright chilly at night so if you’re heading out before daybreak, a light, waterproof coat is recommended. The fact that thundershowers can arrive without warning makes a light coat for you and zip-lock bags for your gear a good idea at any time. And don’t forget the dust, oh the dust. The dust control on newer SLRs might be enough to minimize the spotting you’ll do on photos once back home but it is best if you don’t require lens changes all that often. For most of Antananarivo’s street opportunities, a mid-range zoom should be fine.
If you’re in Tana on Friday you’ll need to attend the Zoma (which fittingly means Friday in Malagasy), the large open air market to the south of the Place de l'Indépendence and Antananarivo’s train station. The Zoma can be crazy busy on Friday and Saturday; during the week it is still active, barring national holidays, and the crowds can be less intimidating to new comers. Arrive early before the stalls open and afford yourself plenty of time to get your bearings and shoot some detail work of the market. The ground is also a lot cleaner in the early morning before the butcher stalls open.
The Zoma is sectioned into baked goods, vegetables, meat and dry goods along its North-South axis with breads and grains closer to the train station and the cloth and clothing section further south. People selling small goods, spices, vanilla beans and even pet fish orbit the outside of the market while the established vendors have staked a piece of ground or a stall for their wares. Expect some panhandlers near the market as well but don’t let this discourage you. Some will relent quite quickly when they realize you’re not in a giving mood while others may stay with you for blocks. I’ve found that often times merchants will discourage beggars from becoming too aggressive once you’ve stepped into the Zoma proper. There are plenty of pros and cons to giving to these unfortunate souls but I’ll leave that decision up to you.
You’ve come this far so don’t be shy now. Bump up that ISO, open up the aperture and wade into the open air market with a smile on your face. The Malagasy are friendly and welcoming people and most in the big city are used to tourists. Fruits and vegetables offer studies in texture and color, pattern and form. The butcher stalls, if you’ve the stomach, offer rich reds and gotcha moments when images are finally realized for what they are. Cow tongues and frog legs, really?
After a few hours at the market its time for some refreshments and food. I recommend the samosas and some strawberry juice. The only time I’ve ever been sick in Madagascar was after eating at a fancy French restaurant, but I’m part goat in the stomach department so that might just be me. Try the many small shops surrounding the Zoma and you’ll have your choice of authentic local cuisine or something a little more “western” to eat. After some food to stoke the fires its time to head uphill.
Photgraphing Places
Make your way to the Rova the former seat of royal power in Antananarivo, which has a commanding view of the city. Although partially destroyed by fire in the 1990’s, some reconstruction has begun and the remains, and the view of the countryside, are photographically interesting. The walk can be strenuous and the streets are winding and confusing but that’s what adventure is all about. Some of the most interesting spots in Tana are places found by accident and off the beaten track.
On the way to the Rova you’ll past at least one of the seven gates that protected the city in ancient times; a huge round stone sits next to a narrow door way over which the stone would be rolled in times of trouble. The gate nearest the Rova is called Ambavahaditsiomby (try key-wording that into your metadata), which translates roughly into “where even a zebu can not come through”. Detail work and some more street photography are probably your best bet if the sun is high. You can also use this time to scope out some interesting scenic spots for sunset.
Most structures and locations are harmless to photograph. I’d avoid military bases and police stations, embassies, airports and the usual common sense “sensitive” sites. Trains and train stations (sorry Ian) can be dicey as well. I’ve never had any problem with the authorities in downtown Tana but many guidebooks warn against it. Police-men and soldiers are another matter as most will gladly pose for you. With busy intersections the norm, there are often traffic police in crisp white uniforms whose dancing motions can make for interesting, and sometimes comical triptych.
You’ll need to take one more stop before leaving Antananarivo for the countryside, Lake Anosy. Well, let me amend that statement. If you’re in Madagascar when the Jacaranda trees are blooming, typically mid September into mid November, Lake Anosy is worth a stop; any other time of year it’s just a soupy green lake with a war memorial in the middle of it. When the Jacaranda trees bloom, their lovely purple flowers compliment nicely the vibrant green of the lake. Throw in some wading cattle egrets and you’ve got a fairly colourful scene. The lake is teeming with Tilapia and carp and although it obviously supports some life, I wouldn’t fall in as they only recently closed the public toilets that emptied directly into the lake (it’s beginning to smell much better now).
Getting Around
Walking around Antananarivo will open up various opportunities for discovery. Aside from the hike to the Rova, walking isn’t terrible strenuous and there are often sidewalks to keep you out of traffic. As a photographer you’ll no doubt be fairly aware of your surroundings and will spot the less “comfortable” parts of town quite quickly. I’ve never felt threatened in any part of Tana but I’m big-boned and tend to carry my camera in a non-descript messenger bag when I’m not shooting (plus, if I just got back from the field I’m a tad hairy and more than a tad ripe).
If you’re not comfortable walking, taxis are abundant and an experience not to be missed. A ride from one side of town to the other usually costs $5 (USD) but again haggling can drop the price. Don’t commit to a taxi until you’ve looked inside and settled on a fare. Oftentimes seats will be threadbare with exposed springs, and don’t panic if they shut the engine off to go down hill; they’re just doing their bit to conserve gas. In 2005 the government began regulating taxis and in 2006 all the official taxis were beige and often times aging Citroens. Although taxi-hijacking isn’t common in Tana you’re best to stick with vehicles exhibiting the “Taxi – Antananarivo” sign on the roof and, at least for right now, are beige.
Tana offers a range of hotels to cover all comfort levels. I recommend purchasing a travel guide and surfing the net to see what is currently operating and at what price. Generally, paying more than $45 (USD) a night will put you in a decent part of town. If you’re not fluent in French, or at least comfortable with it, book a flexible tour; it is a good way to get your feet wet in Madagascar and you won’t be worry with every little twist and turn.
Antananarivo offers abundant opportunities regardless of your photographic inclinations. Detail work or grand vistas, street photography or urban landscapes, with a little leg work and a smile on your face you’ll find it all in Madagascar’s capital city. Step outside your comfort zone and travel to a land that’s not quite Africa and not wholly Indonesia. Adventure is calling, and I haven’t even mentioned the coconut rum.
About the Author
After stints as a whale trainer, mechanical engineer, and fisheries consultant Alex Saunders arrived at the Denver Zoo in the mid 90’s. Photography has been a constant thread throughout Alex’s many careers; a passion he pursues along many paths and genres. A display of his work from Madagascar can be found on his conservation website http://www.madagascarfish.org/gallery.html.
