It had been a long but leisurely drive from Muscat, along the Arabian Gulf coast of Oman, towards the old city of Sur. This partly graded road, along the coast, was not as comfortable as the blacktop between Muscat and Sur, but offered many more attractions: green and lush wadis, with pools of crystalline water (like wadi Shab), pristine beaches of white coral sand and archaeological remains (Bib Miriam’s tomb near Kalhat). But our final travel photography destination lay beyond Sur, and around the north-eastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula, where the coast opens up to the winds and waves of the Indian Ocean. Here lies the Ra’s Al Hadd peninsula, where thousands of turtles come ashore every year to lay their eggs.
Perhaps it is the beauty and serenity of the area, or its secluded character, but there must be something special about this place that attracts between 6000 and 13000 turtles (the largest number of mating turtles in Oman). Every year they journey here, from many and far places: Arabian Gulf, Red Sea, and the East African coast.
The most common species is the green turtle, for which Oman is a vital part of their habitat in the Indian Ocean. Thus, the green turtle is heavily protected by the government, with many beaches being considered as reserved areas. The so-called “green turtle” gets its name from the colour its body becomes because of the green algae it feeds on. They spend most of their lives in the sea, but return to land to lay their eggs. The females, according to researchers, come back to the beach where they were born to lay their eggs, in the company of their prospective mates. They swim thousands of miles to get to their “natal” beach.
There are numerous beaches that you can visit to watch the turtles, but in the interest of conservation, it is better to visit the ones that are controlled by the park services. As such, it is advisable to arrange for a permit in advance, with any of the operators that organize the visits and also provide accommodation. You can also obtain a permit to camp within the designated areas inside the park. A typical trip includes one visit at night, where you have the opportunity to witness the females laying their eggs, and one visit just before sunrise. The latter is a good opportunity to see some of the females returning to the water, and also to see many baby turtles trying to make their way into the safety of the ocean. At all times, you will be accompanied by a park ranger, who will explain the whole process in great detail.
After the mating ceremony, the female is ready to lay her eggs in the sand. Before this however, she laboriously digs a number of false nests with her hind flippers to divert predators from her real nest. These predators are usually the desert foxes, and birds. Only then does she settle down and deposit her eggs into the nest. This is a highly emotional moment, and it is a privilege to be able to witness this ancestral behaviour. The eggs number about 100 in all. The mother then covers them with sand, a process that could take up to four hours. Then, exhausted but satisfied, she returns to the water, where she will keep guard, without feeding, for two weeks. After this period, she returns to lay her next batch of eggs.
The baby turtles also have to fight for their lives as soon as they are born. After breaking through the shells and digging out of the nests, the babies head for the ocean. At this stage, even the depression of a simple footprint in the sand can cause a serious obstacle in their quest to reach the safety of the ocean. Many will be eaten by predators during their very first journey in life, as crabs and seagulls try to catch them. It is impossible to resist grabbing these babies and helping them into the safety of the water.
Under the dark cloak of the night, it is not possible to appreciate the fever of activity that goes on around you; you will see a few turtles digging the nests and laying their eggs. However, as soon as the first rays of sunlight bathe the golden sand, you will notice the conspicuous tracks left by dozens of turtles, as they scurried up the beach, and then back. It looks like a busy traffic artery, full of lanes and interchanges.
But even when the females return to the ocean, they are not free of peril. Ra’s Al Hadd is home to a large fishing community, and it is necessary to prevent them being inadvertently trapped in fishing nets. Therefore, to ensure that both the turtles and the fishermen benefit, two management areas have been created. The priority is given to the nesting grounds.
If you come to Oman, going to the Ra’s Al Hadd Turtle Reserve should be one of the highlights in your “things to do” list. It is a unique experience, and you will find yourself part of an exciting life process. This is one of the species that has survived since the time when the dinosaurs roamed the land and the sea.
Some photographic notes:
This is a great area to take travel photographs, as the coastal road to Sur is full of interesting things. It well worth making a few stops along the way, and to allow some extra time to engage with the “dhow” ship builders in Sur (this is the traditional boat of the ancient Arabian navigators). Between Sur and Ra’s Al Hadd, the flat landscape is punctuated by odd rocky outcrops, where the layers of rock have been folded and twisted, to create some really interesting patterns.
Inside the nature reserve, the rules have to be followed. You should not harm or cause distress to the turtles in any way. Especially during the night visit, there is a strict no-flash policy in place, as the sudden burst of light can greatly disturb the animals. No flashlights are allowed either.
Personally, I find the hour or so before sunrise the best one; it is fantastic to witness the first rays of sun over the Indian ocean spreading over the golden sands and the turquoise waters of the sea. It is so quiet that you can actually feel the silence around you.
One other personal preference is to photograph some scenes in black and white. For this trip, I have used a small compact camera, loaded with fast ISO 400 film (you will need fast ISO for the early morning scenes). I think the black and white images are my favourite ones from this trip, because they capture the stark character of the surrounding landscape, as well as the bare nakedness and exposure of the creatures, as they struggle for survival. The rest of the images were made with colour slide film.
About the Author
Paulo Bizarro has been taking photographs since 1987. More of
his work can be seen on www.paulobizarro.com
. He can also be contacted at: pbizarro35@yahoo.co.uk
