Normally, when people think about travel photography, they associate it with distant and exotic destinations. How many times have you thought about your own town, or village, from a travel photographer’s perspective? This was the challenge that I posed to myself one day: pack the camera, and “travel” through my hometown, Lisbon, with a fresh pair of eyes. Easier said than done, though. The problem is that I am so familiar with the place, that it was difficult to escape the obvious, and to start looking for the subtle aspects of this lively city. It helps that the city is constantly changing, so there is always something new. It also helps that Lisbon is blessed by a fantastic light, which reflects off the Tagu’s estuary with a golden glow.
I have photographed Lisbon many times before. It is such an attractive city, with its downtown (“Baixa”) quarters hugging the castle hill; it’s Moorish quarters (“bairros”) and their intricate and narrow alleyways; its churches and monuments celebrating the great Age of Discoveries (the famous Belém area); the more recent developments along the Tagus river, with many “esplanadas”, restaurants, and cultural centres and museums. Not forgetting the iconic bridge over the river, resembling the famous one in San Francisco. Well, I have been there, done that. My objective this time was to literally focus on the more elusive, try to see the tree in the middle of the forest, so to speak. Thus, I invite you to join me in a stroll along some of the historical areas of Lisbon, eyes open for the not-so-obvious. That said, it is not possible to avoid some of the more obvious subjects, especially when you are in the castle’s ramparts looking down, into the maze of red-roofed houses of the Baixa district.
The day started in one of Lisbon’s most famous squares, the Praça do Comércio (photo 1). Bathed in the morning light, it gives the visitor a welcoming feeling, together with a nice view of the Castelo de São Jorge on top of the hill. Commuters are busy rushing from the ferries to the buses, but I am lucky, I can afford all the time in the world to admire the setting. From here, you can follow the directions towards the castle, but please take a few moments to see one of the oldest restaurants in Lisbon, the Martinho da Arcada. Tucked away under the arches of the buildings, this place has been famous since the 18th century. So why not stop and have a strong coffee, or “bica”? It is a luxury you can afford while everybody else is trying to beat the rush hour (photo 2).
My next stop is Lisbon’s oldest church, the Sé, which lies on the way to the castle. This 12th century church has seen so much history that its walls seen to whisper; once you are inside its dark and quiet walls, you feel sheltered from the outside world. I particularly like the colourful stained glasses, or “vitrais”, and the peaceful statue of the Virgin holding baby Jesus (photos 3 and 4). From the Sé, I then walk up to the Santa Luzia “miradouro”, or viewpoint. Most people come here to admire the view of the river and its far southern bank. And you should do that, of course. This time, looking for something different, I have found the blue and white “azulejo” (tiles) panel depicting a view of Lisbon from the 18th century (photo 5). Some more houses nearby display fine examples of this form of art, an inheritance from the Moorish times (photo 6). If you look up, you can also see interesting examples of restored old houses, colourful under the morning sun. The same morning sun that enters through the open windows, and dries the laundry outside the balconies (photo 7), has yet reached some of the more narrow streets (photo 8).
It’s easy to reach the castle, since it’s all the way up. Once inside, you have many interesting things to see and visit. There are numerous layers of history here, and even today archaeological excavations still go on. But what brings me here, time after time, is the fantastic view into the heart of Lisbon. The red roofed houses, the maze of streets below, everything holds together like a 3D puzzle. Just amazing. I am afraid this is one photographic cliché that I can not avoid (photo 9).
Nearby are the districts of Mouraria and Alfama, which are justly famous for their narrow and twisted streets, a memory of the Moorish occupation of the city. You may hear someone singing the Fado, the song of longing that is rooted deep in the soul of this area. It is easy to get lost inside these walls, but there are many interesting photographic opportunities around. I particularly like some narrow streets that are covered by archways, with funny twists of light and shadow (photos 10 and 11). These are the typical “becos”, or cul-de-sac. There is always a surprise around the corner, be it the bright red fire fighting mains, or the old lady relaxing up in the balcony (photos 12 and 13). This part of the city has undergone an extensive programme of rehabilitation of the old houses, and it now presents the visitor a new clean face. As a Lisbon native, I was happy to see that positive evolution.
One other historical area that has undergone some major changes is the Chiado district. In 1988, a large fire burnt the whole district down, and the are remained derelict for many years. However, now it has been reconstructed to its former glory, and it is bristling with designer shops and a general feeling of being “in”, as far as trends go. I have already mentioned that Lisbon is blessed with a very special quality of light; nowhere is this more apparent than up in the “Elevador de Santa Justa”, which connects the Chiado to the Baixa (photo 14). Just riding in this century old elevator is a fine experience, but just wait until you reach the top. My advice is to go there in the late afternoon, because then the light will be beautiful. You will see the castle hill, the Sé, and the old quarters in front of you (photos 15 and 16). I do have to say that this “miradouro”, while perfectly safe, is not for people who are afraid of heights.
This is the perfect way of ending this experience of trying to be a travel photographer in your own city. It can be difficult to come up with new ideas and approaches to a well known subject, but there is also the advantage of being familiar with the place, and that even things out a little bit. Finally, even the rush hour in the underground can provide you with some interesting photographs, so just go out and enjoy (photo 17).
About the Author
Paulo Bizarro has been taking photographs since 1987. More of
his work can be seen on www.paulobizarro.com
. He can also be contacted at: pbizarro35@yahoo.co.uk
