There are many treks that a travel photographer can do in Oman,
with varying grades of difficulty. Most of them follow
ancient foot paths, or donkey trails, across the mountains. These
ancient paths have been used for centuries as routes between
isolated mountain villages. One of these
treks can be done in Wadi Mistal, in the Western Hajar Mountains.
This wadi is one of the many that drains the Northern flank of
the Western Hajar Mountains of Oman, and is within easy reach
of the capital area of Muscat via a nice tarmacked road.
Last October we began our Wadi Mistal Trek
king adventure by driving a
few kilometres past the picturesque village of Nakhl and turning
left onto the wadi’s
graded road. Soon we were driving along the wadi bed, past
very large boulders. One wonders about the sheer force of
the flash-floods that were able to displace and transport these
huge rocks. The wadi
begins to widen considerably, ultimately becoming a bowl surrounded
by brown and grey jagged peaks that seem to be part of a prehistoric
world. Wadi Mistal provides not only an entrance into the mountains,
but also a passage into a different world.
The village
of Wakan is perched on the top of a rocky spur, well above
the dusty bowls of Wadi Mistal. Wakan is no more than a few
houses surrounded by green terraces that seem to hug the mountain
side. It is possible to get a taste of very old traditions and
ways of life in harsh mountain conditions. But in the midst of
these surroundings a new telecommunications
antenna has been erected, and a new tourist
post is being built in the shape of the typical rounded Omani watch
tower.
Since Wakan is situated at around 1000m (3,300 ft.) of altitude, it has
a very particular set of climatic conditions. Indeed, on that early
October morning, the green orchards were full of trees bearing
pomegranates, peaches, and almonds. Everywhere,
there were bright red pomegranates, waiting to be picked. In
February, these trees will be in full blossom, and then it is possible
to witness the stark contrast between the delicate white and pink
flowers and their inhospitable surroundings. This is one of the
many details that give the Oman mountains such a unique
character.
Because it was Ramadan, most of the people stayed inside, but
there were a few farmers tending to the fields. Normally, they
would invite us in for coffee and dates, but because they were
fasting, that did not happen. Nevertheless, they are always very friendly,
and we exchanged greetings. Even though Wakan is only a
couple of hours drive from Muscat, the number of visitors there
is still very limited. Thus we felt, more than saw,
the eyes inspecting us from behind shaded windows.
The beginning of the trek itself is well marked by a brown
sign, and a map with the route is displayed. The full trek
is 14 km (8.7 miles) long, and takes you all the way around the
mountain in a wide loop. If you plan to do the complete trek, you
will need two cars; one parked in the wadi below with the other parked in
Wakan. Then once the trek is finished, use the car below to take you up
to Wakan. Then, when you finish the trek, just take the car below and drive
up to Wakan again. We had only one car, so we would only be doing half of
the trek that day.
For the first few hundred metres we walked amongst the houses and plantations,
following a path that is covered with stone slabs. There was plenty
of shade provided by the trees. We heard the water
gurgling down through the falaj system, which is
a series of earth and concrete channels carved into the mountain.
It brings water from the springs above right down to the fields
and houses below. It was a very pleasant walk, listening to the
water under the shade of the pomegranate trees.
The path kept on climbing out of the orchards, and passed close to a
small mosque. From that point forward, you have to pay attention
to the coloured striped markers that signal the trekking route.
The fruit trees were replaced by wild and dispersed olive
and acacia trees, so the shade was sparse. Walking along
the rough path with the sun on our
backs, we started to feel the temperature rising. The reward came
soon enough, as we turned around to admire the scenery. Below
us was the earth-coloured houses, the green terraces, and further
away, the mountain peaks that surround the wadi. What a magnificent
view!
This first part of the trek climbs up to around 2500m (6,500 ft.) to the
Wakan Pass; the col where the two mountain flanks come together,
enclosing the bowl. In some places, the path becomes narrow, hugging
the cliff face. Climbing up, we spotted a big boulder that
seemed to hang precariously over the precipice. Since it was in
the shade of the cliff, it looked like a good place for a short
stop. We took a breather, and grabbed a few more photos. Wakan
was no more than a small group of houses, way down below.
Continuing the climb, the path becomes
more rugged. In a few places you have to negotiate difficult
terrain. We managed to make it all the way to Wakan
Pass. To the North, the mountain peaks seem to
engulf the earth in a primitive embrace. It is a view that simply
takes one's breath away. We sat and admired it, trying to appreciate
its full scale. It's not the top of the world, of course, but
it sure is close to the top of Oman. From here, it is possible
to trek onward to the Sayq Plateau in Jebel Akhdar, or to continue
on the same trekking path, all the way down the Eastern flank of
the bowl. (Remember to leave another car there, or you will have
to walk all the way back up to Wakan!)
After resting a while, we made our way back to Wakan along our
original route. It was the middle of the afternoon, and with the
approaching sunset and the breaking of the fast, the village seemed
to be bustling about with activity. There were children playing
in the courtyards, and I tried to photograph them without much
success. Most of them simply ran away. However, I did manage to
photograph a small boy leaning against the door frame of his house.
He seemed not to pay me any attention. From
inside the house came the smell of food being prepared, filling
the air with the aroma of lamb, rice, and spices. A few houses
down, the men gathered in a small and simple mosque, praying.
I left Wakan feeling richer, after experiencing
this harmonious interaction between men and mountain. I am thankful
to have been able to witness this way of life, which is rooted
deep in history, and I can only wish that men everywhere could
learn to respect nature the same way that the inhabitants of
Wakan do. As a traveller, one is always looking for enriching
and learning experiences; if you happen to visit Wakan, or its
surroundings, you will not be left wanting.
I would like to finish with a few notes regarding general safety while
trekking, and recommended photographic practices. Most treks in
Oman follow mountain paths at varying altitudes. This particular trek around
the Gubrah bowl, and Wakan, has been classified by the Ministry of Tourism
of Oman as grade 2/3. This means that you should have some previous trekking
experience, and should carry out the trek accompanied. Furthermore, it means
that the path is in many places above 2000m altitude, and steep. So, by
all means enjoy the trek, but exercise due caution.
As for photographing in the villages, you will find different
reactions. Everybody will be friendly, and some will offer coffee and dates
(which you should accept as a sign of politeness and respect). Always ask
permission, even if only by sign language, before pointing the camera towards
a person. In some instances, people will shy away from the camera, but not
always. This is where your personal charm, and respect for local customs,
pays off. These days, a digicam is a nice ice breaker, so if you have one,
use it. I have visited these villages many times before, either carrying
a digicam, a film SLR, or both.
About the Author
Paulo Bizarro has been taking photographs since 1987. More of
his work can be seen on www.paulobizarro.com
. He can also be contacted at: pbizarro35@yahoo.co.uk
