Driving south through the Navajo reservation on Highway U.S.
89, our anticipation heightens as the San Francisco Peaks come
into view. While my wife and I have made this journey many times
previously, we still marvel at the magnetic pull that draws us
to return to northern Arizona each year.
At Flagstaff we turn south on I-17 and drive through the Ponderosa pine
forests of the Mogollon Plateau before exiting at Highway 179.
Approaching Sedona, the now familiar monoliths named Bell Rock, Courthouse
Butte and Cathedral Rock come into view. We’ve learned to be careful
driving here with the tourists gazing at the scenery rather than attending
to the traffic. Fortunately, many turnoffs are provided for those who wish
to stop and photograph the wonderful landscapes.
A few minutes later, the winding highway deposits us in the heart of Sedona.
From the “Y” intersection with Highway 89A, one may turn to
the right to visit uptown Sedona or left to visit West Sedona.
Either direction will reward the visitor with hotels, motels, condominium
rentals, restaurants, gift shops and art galleries. Did I mention
the art galleries?
This trip, we settle into the Arroyo Roblé Resort,
an older uptown timeshare condominium complex located next to the
rushing waters of Oak Creek. The two-bedroom townhouse units of
this resort are surrounded by huge sycamore and cottonwood trees,
which provide a lovely and private environment. Sitting out on
our patio in the evening, listening to the creek flowing past and
the rhythmic sounds of cicadas in the trees, we feel so very relaxed.
Late one evening on a previous visit here we saw a family of javelina
snacking along the grassy banks of the creek.
Awakening in the morning chill, we find the patio sun-filled and sit outside
to enjoy the warmth of our fresh-brewed coffees. Later, we meander up on
Airport Mesa to breakfast at the airport’s cafe overlooking the single
runway. It’s here, while heartily consuming chili verde omelets, we’ve
spied roadrunners (Geococcyx californianus) jogging along the taxiway.
The scenic views from anyplace in Sedona are always exciting. As a photographer,
I often find myself, after parking the car in town and getting out, staring
at the nearby red rock vistas. The changing light and shadows are constantly
drawing my attention. The anticipation of being here and of making photographs
of the red landscapes, is often quite overwhelming.
Our midday hours are often spent visiting Sedona’s many wonderful
shops and art galleries. The array of Native American art and jewelry is
astonishing. We can spend an entire afternoon admiring, listening, and learning
about American Indian culture and heritage as we browse through the local
shops.
We always devote at least one afternoon to wander the courtyards and shops
of Tlaquepaque
(Tuh-lah-key-pah-key), a wonderful shopping village designed
after the Mexican town of the same name.
As sunset draws near, we find ourselves looking for opportunities to make
landscape photographs. Within just a few minutes of the hustle and bustle
of Sedona, we can be out in the red rocks, completely alone, save for each
other, and in the solitude of nature. Our small, high-clearance, four-wheel-drive
vehicle allows us safe access to many unpaved backcountry roads.
Now, sitting high on a red rock outcropping, surrounded by nature’s
most beautiful spires and hoodoos, the only sound we hear is the faint caw
of a nearby raven looking for its evening meal. As the sun slowly moves
toward the horizon, the light turns golden, the shadows become longer, and
my photographs record the scenes as I see them. It is such a rich and wonderful
opportunity to be in this natural place….a place free for everyone
to enjoy.
Perhaps the next morning, before sunrise, we will find our way along Schnebly
Hill Road, driving north from Sedona up into the mountains to select a spot
to photograph the first light as it falls on the ridges of the Mogollon
Rim. There are many trails here that provide foot-access into the Munds
Mountain Wilderness. As always, hikers should be prepared and carry extra
water with them.
Lunch atShugrues
Hillside Grill & Bar
in Sedona’s Hillside Plaza always
provides us a lovely opportunity to gaze at the nearby red rock mountains
while savoring some of Sedona’s southwestern cuisine. Later, we enjoy
wandering the adjacent shops and galleries.
Just up the street from Hillside one finds Exposures, a stand-alone gallery
containing museum-quality art. Exposures is always a great experience for
those who appreciate fine art in all its mediums.
Taking the Lower Loop Road from Highway 89A west of town, one will find
Crescent Moon Ranch State Park where access may be gained to the famed “Red
Rock Crossing” site along Oak Creek. From this location, the changing
views of Cathedral Rock can be captured. Sunrise, sunset, stormy, clear,
rushing creek or placid stream….every opportunity for photographing
this icon of Sedona is here for those with patience and skill.
During our week’s stay, yet another early morning outing will take
us through uptown Sedona along Highway 89A into Oak Creek Canyon, one of
the most scenic red rock canyons in the West. Driving past Slide Rock State
Park, we’ll stop at the parking area for the West Fork trailhead where
the ranger will assess a nominal fee. Hiking in the West Fork of Oak Creek
Canyon is easily managed by most people, especially those who like to ford
streams by hopping from one rock to the next. Bring lots of memory for your
camera as the scenery along this trail is just absolutely exquisite.
Whether you spend a week or just a few days in Sedona, the town and its
red rock surroundings will surely captivate you, as a first-time visitor.
And you too, will likely return again and again.
If You Go:
Here is the official website for the Sedona
Chamber of Commerce
, and this is where you’ll find information on Red Rock Country and
hiking trails in the Coconino
National Forest
About the Author
Lee Robinson is a freelance writer, photographer and business
owner living in Sandy, Utah with his wife and two retired racing
greyhounds.
The Photography of Lee Robinson
