The Vicentina Coast in Portugal is characterised by a unique
combination of features, both natural and human. The region has
been inhabited since pre-historic times, and people have lived
off the land and the sea. Thus, it is quite common to find small
farms right next to tiny fishing harbours. A few kilometres inland
from the sea, there are some mountains and hills, called “serras,” such
as in Grandola, Cercal, and Monchique. This combination makes
the region ideal for travel photography.
Located just 150 km south of Lisbon, the Vicentina Coast can be divided
into several sections, which will help in planning a trip.
From Sines to Milfontes
This small fishing village is the birthplace of Vasco da Gama, who discovered
the maritime route to India. In the early 1970s, Sines was shaken by the
construction of a new refinery and a deep water port, ending any possibility
that it could be turned into a beach resort.. Today, the old part of town,
with its castle and winding streets facing the sea, still has some charm.
A few kilometres south is Porto Covo, which was a quiet place until a popular
Portuguese singer wrote a song about it the mid-1980s. Since then, the village
has grown considerably, but you can still find some quiet inlets to enjoy
the sun and the sea.
Near Porto Covo, you’ll find the island of Pessegueiro, where two
forts were built in the 16th century to ward off pirates. Their ruins can
look unsettling on foggy days, or at sunset. From here, we keep on driving
until we reach Milfontes. The countryside features small farms and beautiful
houses, built in the traditional Alentejo way: long and low, painted white
to protect from the summer heat, and with colourful deep blue, yellow, or
grey stripes around the edges.
Thirty years ago, Milfontes was but a quiet fishing village on the estuary
of the River Mira, without electricity or running water. Except for the
summer months, it is still quiet. It is easy to understand why it is so
popular if you head to the castle and admire the view. At your feet, you
have the estuary of the River Mira (the least polluted river in Europe,
since there are no industries along its course), where it reaches the sea.
A handful of fishing boats float quietly on the water. To your right, you
will see the ocean, and sand bar beaches. Looking south, the sandy beaches
are trapped between the sea, and the dark and brooding cliffs seem to go
on forever.
Milfontes is best explored on foot, and you can get easily lost among its
narrow alleyways. Make sure to visit the small and simple church
(painted in white and blue), and try to spot the typical chimneys in its
vicinity.
There are plenty of places to stay during this leg of the journey; there
are camping sites and rooms for rent not only in Milfontes, but in Sines
and Porto Covo.
From Milfontes to Zambujeira
Crossing the bridge over the River Mira, after a short drive you’ll
reach a place called Longueira. Here you’ll find a mix of old and
new houses, all siding the only – but rather long – street.
There are a couple of interesting sites in Longueira, including a well-preserved
and colourful windmill (look for the new communications antenna). The beach
of Brejo Largo, a 45-minute walk toward the coast along a dirt road and
some dunes, is one of the best-kept secrets of the area. A 2-km-long stretch
of deserted sand, it is lies between the black cliffs and the rough waves
of the sea. The actual walk to get there is quite easy, and you will pass
farmland and the coastal dune system. There are many pine trees, aromatic
herbs (rosemary is abundant), and a few rabbits. All the time, you can listen
to the sea, which should entice you to keep going. You will probably find
a few fishermen trying their luck, and who knows, at the end of the day,
you may be eating their catch at one of the local restaurants.
From Longueira, it is just a short drive to Almograve, which is famous
for its golden sandy beach and low tide pools. The village itself
is nothing to write home about, due to its fair share of somewhat
chaotic construction. Heading south, you’ll reach Cabo (Cape) Sardão
with its lighthouse perched atop precipitous cliffs. If you are
not afraid of heights, you can walk all the way to the edge of
the chasm and enjoy the view. It is quite awesome to listen to
the roaring waves below, crashing against the rocks and to watch
the seagulls flying and storks nestling in the rock. If you enjoy
trekking, you can follow the coastline between the Cape and Almograve.
It is a highly rewarding trek, as you walk along the border between
these two different worlds of land and sea.
Zambujeira is a short drive away. This is a very picturesque village, facing
a short beach trapped between two rock spurs. Besides the beach, the main
attractions are a disco bar (if you enjoy night life), fresh fish, and the
summer open-air rock festival. As you can see, Zambujeira has a bit of everything
to please every body.
You should not proceed south without taking a detour inland, to visit the
interesting town of Odemira. The winding road descends from the hills, and
allows some brief views of the village, with its white washed houses bordering
the River Mira. Arriving from the coast, you will enter the town through
an old steel bridge. It is quite pleasant to stroll through the streets,
stopping here and there to admire the well-kept gardens and fountains, or
to bargain for a souvenir from one of the shops in the main street. Odemira
does not have the bustling activity of Milfontes, but it offers a lot if
you are looking for a peaceful place. And from here, you can keep going
to the interior, to visit the amazing Santa Clara dam, where the waters
of the Mira are trapped in a blue lake set against the green hills. It’s
an alternative to the crowded beaches, and a nice place to relax.
From Zambujeira to Aljezur
The next leg of our journey features some of the most beautiful beaches
in this region. It is impossible to describe them all, but all you have
to do is turn off from the main road when you spot a brown sign indicating
a beach: Vale dos Homens, Carriagem, Odeceixe, Monte Clèrigo, Amoreira,
Arrifana, just to name a few. Each one is characterised by a particular
aspect, but all share the same wilderness of rock, sand, and sea. The cliffs
here are higher and steeper, as the area is near the “serras” of
the Algarve (Monchique is 950 metres above sea-level). In Carriagem, the
black schist has been eroded and sculpted by the sea into grooves and interesting
shapes. You can also admire the result of the tectonic forces that have
moulded the rocks into odd folded geometries.
If you prefer more tranquil waters, you should try the beaches of Amoreira
and Odeceixe. Here, small rivers make their way to the ocean along green
hills. You can choose between a quiet dip on the protected river side or
a more energetic swim on the ocean side.
Arrifana is a favourite spot for surfers, and it is easy to understand
why. The long beach is lies between high cliffs and is exposed
to favourable winds and has good currents. The result is a continuous swell
that sweeps the bay, ensuring that the sea is never flat. Seen from above,
the beach is spectacular, framed in the foreground by a few perched houses
and in the background by the majestic hills. It is worth noting the now
deactivated funicular, which in the past would help the fishermen to transport
their catch. Nearby archaeological excavations have unearthed settlements
from pre-historic and Moorish periods.
Don’t leave the area without taking a stroll through the pretty village
of Aljezur. In fact, there are two of them, separated by a valley.
The old one hugs the ruined 11th-century castle, and has an Arabic flavour
to it. The old village was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake, which also
destroyed Lisbon. Following that tragic episode, people decided to settle
a farther inland. If you visit in October or November, make sure to participate
in the local Shellfish and Sweet Potato Festival, and be sure to taste the
famous barnacles. The history of the region of Aljezur is better
appreciated by visiting the very interesting local museum.
From Aljezur to Sagres
Driving off from Aljezur, the landscape changes, with more fig and almond
trees. We are indeed approaching the Algarve, or the Al-Gharb Moorish kingdom.
The villages become more dispersed, and the population decreases. Remember,
this area was completely destroyed by the 1755 earthquake; you can still
the evidence of it in the small chapels with a ruined wall here and there.
This is where the dichotomy of the Vicentina Nature Preserve comes to mind.
On the one hand, the rules of the park enforce strict restrictions on construction
and development thus preserving the environment; on the other hand, these
rules prevent the population from benefiting from a more active tourism
industry. The end result is that the younger generation tries to find a
better future elsewhere.
The first villages on the way are Carrapateira and Bordeira, where a small
river meets the sea. The beach is stunning, with long sand bars and rough
waves. Folklore has it that a pirate ship full of treasures is still hidden
beneath the waves. The sheer quietness of the place is only disturbed by
the sea gulls, and by the wind rustling through the bushes. It is a very
nice place to rest, and you can find rooms for rent in a few guesthouses.
A good option is to go horseback riding in the beach.
A short drive from the town of Vila do Bispo is Castelejo Beach, one of
many wild beaches tucked away under the towering cliffs. You can walk from
here to many interesting places, visiting pre-historic sites, and old abandoned
farmhouses. This is a land that belongs to the wind and the ocean.
Perhaps that is the reason why Prince Henry decided to settle here, in
the fortress of Sagres. This used to be the promontorium sacrum of the Romans,
and it was a sacred place even before then. This is the headland where the
Atlantic Ocean is tamed; to the east of Sagres, the sea becomes much quieter.
I decided to end the last day of my journey looking out into the vast emptiness
from the walls of the lighthouse of São Vicente, feeling the wind
and the sea. I sincerely hope this region will be able to keep
its character intact for future generations.
About the Author
Paulo Bizarro has been taking photographs since 1987. More of
his work can be seen on www.paulobizarro.com
. He can also be contacted at: pbizarro35@yahoo.co.uk
