Palesye, Belarus - Where Time Stood Still

Text and images by Mitchell Kanashkevich - All rights reserved.

Belarus is a country in central Europe. It is a former republic of the USSR and the place where I was born and lived until the age of ten. Whenever I come back to visit there is always a sense of familiarity, a feeling of being home, but although I have been taking travel photographs around the world for a few years now, I have never shot anything in Belarus. In the past the opportunity to pursue the subjects that interest me wasn’t there, and because I don’t make images just for the sake of making them I never went out shooting.

Editor's Note: Thumbnails are links to larger images

However during my last trip the circumstances were different. Everything fell into place, and along with some friends I went out into a region that has stirred my imagination for quite a while. The region is called “Palesye” and it encompasses all of southern Belarus, West to East.

Palesye used to be famous for its vast number of swamps, its unique people as well as their customs and their language; a blend of Belarusian, Ukrainian and Polish. While over the last century the swamps have been drained to make way for crop fields and the customs are not practiced as widely as in the past, this is still a region where you often feel like time has stood still for about half a century. This ‘time machine factor’ is ever present through most of the rural Palesye. Old, traditional houses, water wells, absence of paved roads, horse carriages, these are some of the signs which indicate that ‘civilization’ has passed by a lot of the Palesye countryside.

But things will not remain this way forever. Some of the older villages will fade away and become eaten up by the forest. Others will modernize, the indigenous population will resettle elsewhere and not much will remain of their culture and traditions. It is not clear when the changes will come. Some customs and traditions are being reborn, but a lot of the living relics of Palesye - its old people are inevitably disappearing. On my trip I set out into the Palesye countryside to capture the old, disappearing as well as the new Palesye through its people.

It was interesting and surprisingly challenging taking photos in a country where for me there was no language barrier. What I quickly found out was that my ability to understand and speak the local language was potentially as much of a problem as it was a virtue. Unlike my time in Asia, a local was not usually speaking on my behalf. I had to explain what I was after myself.

The villages of Palesye are not like those of Asia. They are sparsely populated, much less happens on the streets and the people can be extremely shy and self conscious. Shooting candid shots is not the answer, so some explaining about what I was doing was in order. Initially my experience was a bit of a hit and miss. If I said the ‘right’ things people would not only agree to a photo, but open up their inner self. I was truly touched while some of the older people shared with me their incredible yet sometimes tragic stories. They were very thankful that someone cared enough to listen. Many of them were very lonely and even a few moments with people stirred deep emotions inside them.

However if during my approach I said something that was too unexpected (that I am from Australia or that I had traveled around the world) people became confused, embarrassed and generally wanted no part in having their image taken.

Eventually I was lucky enough to stumble upon a wonderful local woman who offered to take us around to meet the kind of people I was after. A few of these images are a direct result of her help. I studied the way she talked to people, what language she used and gradually I adapted and was able to not ‘freak’ people out when approaching them. After we parted I had to be my own ‘guide’. It was much more challenging than simply being the photographer, yet very rewarding.

All the images were taken with a Canon EOS 350D. Some minor adjustments to color and levels were done in Photoshop CS2. A light reflector was used for a lot of the images.

About the Author

Mitchell Kanashkevich is a filmmaker/photographer who has worked primarily in Hong Kong, Laos, Thailand, India, and Belarus since he graduated from Sydney University in 2003 with a film studies major. More of Mitchell's work can be seen at www.mitchellkimages.com

Mitchell can be contacted at mitchellk81@hotmail.com

 

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