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The Musandam Peninsula
By Paulo Bizarro
The Musandam Peninsula is located in the northernmost part of Arabia, just facing the Straits of Hormuz. Musandam is a land of stark and magnificent beauty, with its high and rugged mountains dropping precipitously into the blue waters of the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. Although it is part of the Sultanate of Oman, it is separated from the rest of the country by the United Arab Emirates. Due to its strategic military location, it has remained a somewhat unknown and remote area; only in the recent past it has opened to tourism. On the other hand, it has always been a privileged trading and seafaring route, where different civilizations and cultures have met.
There are numerous activities for both the relaxed or more adventurous traveler: dhow trips in the fjords, scuba
diving or snorkeling in crystal clear waters, or 4WD mountain safaris, are just the tip of the iceberg. Camping
in the mountains under a sky full of stars is an unforgettable experience, and coupled with trekking, makes up for
a nice holiday. For the enthusiast photographer, it is a “land of plenty”, with rolling mountains of primeval character,
secluded inlets and bays, and small towns scattered along the coast. The inhabitants have always lived from the
sea, since the mountains are arid and inhospitable.
The beautiful mountains have also provided centuries of isolation for most communities, as the coastal villages can
only be reached by boat. Small areas of flat land provide some basic agriculture up in the mountains, and ancient stone
houses can still be seen hugging the rough mountainsides and terraces. Fishing, and now tourism, are the main sources
of income. The other source of income is the smuggling that takes place more or less covertly between the capital town
of Khasab, and Iran, only 55 Km away. It is quite interesting to watch the speed boats leave the harbor, after trading
in all sorts of goods: goats, American tobacco, TV sets, and more. This activity and the fort are the main highlights
of this small and quiet town. The fort was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, as a re-supply point in the
area.
Musandam is a land that begs to be photographed, both from the sea and from within the mountains. Access into the mountains is only by 4WD, as the roads are scarce and paved with gravel. They are also very sinuous, and so careful driving is required. The upside comes from fantastic views at every bend, so it is hard not to stop. As always, it pays off to catch the first and last glimpses of the sun, when the light bathes the rocks in many hues of orange, red, and purple. The sunset, or sunrise, from the fjord in Khor Nadj, just 10km east of Khasab, is something worth experiencing and photographing. From the top, there is a nice viewpoint that is the perfect spot for sundowners!
From the mountains, one descends to the magic of the ocean. The best way to get acquainted with the thousands of inlets,
bays, and khors (fjords) is to board a dhow for a day trip. The price includes food and drinks onboard. Or you can
go to the harbor and negotiate with a local fisherman, which adds to the overall experience. There is an eerie feeling
when the boat leaves the open waters and enters the fjords. Suddenly everything becomes very quiet. The sea calms down,
and the wind dies out as you make your way into the secluded khor. These fjords are surrounded by tall and dry mountains,
which are the result of the rise in sea-level that took place after the last Ice Age, thousands of years ago. The contrast
with the opal blue of the waters is amazing.
There are plenty of opportunities to stop and go for a swim, enjoying the presence of dolphins and rich sub-aquatic life. One interesting stop is Telegraph Island, which is no more than a barren lump of rock in the middle of the fjord. Its attraction is the remains of the 19th century British telegraph building. They needed it while laying a telegraph cable from India to Basra (in Iraq). Taking the cable “round the bend” of the gulf gave origin to the famous expression, since life in such barren surroundings must have made them crazy.
Along the coastline there are a few isolated villages. People commute by boat to Khasab, where most of the work is. Few things have changed since the British were here more than a century ago. However, the basic commodities, such as electricity and water, are provided for. As the boat approaches the beach it is possible to photograph the houses typical of this area. Do take care and apply common sense photographing the villagers. Remember, you are the intruder in this instance.
The boat seems to float along effortlessly, and sometimes the friendly dolphins just pop out of the water, challenging the dhow as if in a race. Needless to say, a rapid motor drive is a big help in trying to capture these moments with your camera. The captains are experienced seamen, after all they have lived in these waters since they were born; thus, they know when and where the dolphins will most likely show up. All in all, the dhow trip is highly recommended, and an excellent family trip.
For the more adventurous, there is the chance of renting a speed boat for a return trip to Khumzar, the northernmost village in the Straits. The fisherman will take you on an exciting trip, as you will cruise at high speed through choppy waters, bouncing up and down for a couple of hours. A thrilling experience indeed, but do bring some water protection for your camera bag or backpack!
It is very easy to reach Khasab, either by road or airplane (there are direct flights from Dubai and Muscat). Travel agents in Oman or the Emirates offer several packages and deals. And quite recently, a brand new hotel from a main chain as just opened. Though the region is not closed to outsiders anymore, and is already attracting some crowds (especially over the holidays), it is one of the last places on Earth where you can have a true sense of being isolated and in peace.
As stated above, photographic opportunities are abundant. It is useful to have focal length coverage from wide angle (to encompass the mountain vistas and fjords), to telephoto (to isolate details in the landscape). For this particular trip, I carried a 35mm camera, one wide angle zoom lens, and a telephoto lens. A graduated neutral density filter is very helpful in the mountains when photographing sunrises or sunsets to avoid blacking out the deep gorges and wadis. And, as always, bring a tripod.
About the Author
Paulo Bizarro has been taking photographs since 1987. More of his work can be seen on www.paulobizarro.com. He can also be contacted at: pbizarro35@yahoo.co.uk.
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