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"The Stupendous stone statues erected in different places along the coast [of Easter Island were] erected in so masterly a manner as sufficiently shows the ingenuity of the age in which they were built."

James Cook Journal

Thursday, March 17, 1774

Discovered by the Dutch on Easter Day, 1722, Easter Island (or Rapa Nui as it is called locally) is one of the most remote places on earth. The closest inhabited island, Pitcairn, is more then 1,000 miles away. Santiago, Chile's capital and the departure city for the island, is about 2,200 miles of ocean to the East. And Easter Island itself, at 66 square miles, is as small as the distances to reach it are large. So why would someone go so far to see such a diminutive island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean? Because of the stupendous stone statues, that's why.

The Statues

The Easter Island statues, called "moais", can be described (though not artfully) as stone giants. They range from 30 to 60 ft. in height, and some still lying down are even taller. The statues can weigh more than 50 tons and are made from locally available soft volcanic tuff. According to the best available estimates, there are between 800 and 1,000 moais on Easter Island (many moais are believed to still be under ground). Some statues have topknots made of red tuff. Because of various factors such as erosion, warfare and vandalism, all of the statues were at some point toppled. Therefore, all the standing statues you see today were righted in modern times.

Most experts believe the moais were moved using round tree trunks and raised with ropes. It is estimated the statues were carved and erected about 500-600 years ago by the ancestors of the island's modern Polynesian inhabitants.

The Pictures

The possibilities for photographing the massive moais are endless. Some statues are found alone and will look great against the sky or ocean, or as a silhouette against a beautiful sunrise or sunset. Others are grouped together, either in a row or strewn about the side of the ancient quarry.

Here is a short list of some of the most picturesque locations on Easter Island:

• A Kivi, where you will find 7 moais on a platform called an "ahu". This particular location catches the beautiful sunset light, so plan accordingly. Interestingly, the A Kivi moais are located inland and are the only statues facing the ocean (all others face inland). However, recent research suggests that the moais are actually facing an ancient town now in ruins.

• Rano Raraku, an ancient quarry where you will find hundreds of moais in different stages of construction. The compositions here might include a close up shot of one of the stone giants or a "family" portrait of some of the moais. Both morning and afternoon light are good at this site.

• Tahai, home to one of the few moais with eyes still on. Made of white coral, the eyes are illuminated by the morning light for an image that drips with mystery.

• Tongariki, the largest ahu on the island, is comprised of 15 moais and is set against a stunning backdrop of ocean and rock cliffs. This site is best photographed in the afternoon, although a silhouette at sunrise is an option.

• Anakena Beach, home to and ahu with six moais with topknots, is near a lovely beach with a palm tree grove (one of a couple of beaches on the island). Anakena Beach is best photographed in the afternoon.

There are many more moai sites around Easter Island worth visiting and photographing. These are described in a variety of books sold in Hanga Roa, the island's capital and only town. You should also get a copy of JLM's "Trekking Map" of Easter Island, which includes all the moai locations on the island as well as topographical information, roads, and hiking trails.

In addition to the moai sites, other photographic opportunities on Easter Island include petroglyphs, landscapes, the calderas of dormant volcanoes, a very colorful cemetery, and the locals themselves.

The Photo Gear

Most of the moais are easily accessible to the photographer, so bring lenses in the wide angle to mid-telephoto range. Make sure to bring your polarizer filter to cut down reflections in shots including the ocean and to sharply define clouds. I also enjoy using a slight warming filter (I favor Tiffen's 812 filter) to warm the color of the statues a little.

Because you will be shooting early and late in the day, bring your tripod to capture tack-sharp images of the moais bathed in soft light. Since some of your shots will include the ocean, I would also bring a hot shoe mount level to make sure those horizons are straight.

I would recommend using a color saturated film such as Velvia when photographing Easter Island. This will ensure beautiful renditions of the subtle colors found on the island, including brown and dark gray statues, the reddish soils, and the green grasses. And as usual, bring more film and batteries than you think necessary.

Travel Information

LanChile, Chile's national airline, is the only carrier with service to Easter Island. LanChile has three or four scheduled flights from Santiago to the island per week, and the flight takes about 5 hours. I was granted a hand check of my film at the Santiago and Easter Island airports, but such checks are granted at the discretion of the local security personnel. I would recommend arriving at the airport early to avoid asking for a hand check while the security personnel are busy with a hoard of other passengers.

During your visit you will stay in Hanga Roa, home to the majority of the island's 3,000 or so residents. Here you will find a variety of accommodations as well as restaurants, shops, and markets. I stayed at the Vai Moana Hotel and would recommend it. This small inn consists of a handful of simple but clean cabanas on beautifully landscaped grounds, and the $65 cost per night (for a double) includes transportation to and from the airport as well as daily continental breakfast. The staff was also friendly and helpful, and they spoke English.

The best way to get around the island is by renting a 4x4 vehicle, as having your own transportation will give you the flexibility of being at a location at a particular time. A 4x4 will easily accommodate 2 persons and camera gear.

Except in Hanga Roa, all the roads on Easter Island are unpaved and bumpy, so don't be surprised if you have to change a flat tire. A 4x4 costs about $50 per day, and rental arrangements can be made through your hotel.

Easter Island's climate is temperate, not tropical, and cool winds are common, so bring a windbreaker or light jacket no matter what time of the year you visit. It's also a good idea to bring light hikers or sturdy walking shoes, as it can get muddy and slippery at times. The most popular times to visit the island are from December through March.

The Experience

The combination of mystery, remoteness, and simple beauty makes Easter Island an irresistible location to photograph. Here is a place where you will probably be the only person carrying a tripod, and in fact early in the morning you will likely be the only person walking among the silent moais.

Get up early and drive your jeep down a dirt road to say good morning to the giant heads. Listen to the wind blow as it has blown for always. Set up your tripod and wait for first light to touch the nose of a moai. So far you've had a great day. Then you make a picture, and with a little luck it will be, like the silent stones, stupendous.

About the Author

Efraín M. Padró is a full-time professional photographer and writer specializing in nature and travel. Born and raised in San Juan, Puerto Rico, Efraín has photographed in such diverse locations as Morocco, Mexico's Baja California Sur, Perú, and Patagonia. Photographer Efraín's work has appeared in Popular Photography, Outdoor Photographer, Nature Photographers Online Magazine, Sportif (travel clothing) catalogs, and other publications. He has also taught photography for the City of Englewood and REI. Efraín is the Ethics Committee Chair for the North American Nature Photography Association (NANPA). He currently lives with his wife Cathy in Santa Fe, New Mexico. To view more of Efrain's work, visit his website at www.padroimages.com.

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