Travel Photographers Network

Text and images by Dan Kehlenbach - All rights reserved.

“Alaska’s southeast corner harbors the largest contiguous expanse of temperate rain forest on earth, much of it within the majestic, mysterious Tongass National Forest. Nuzzling Glacier Bay, the forests of the Tongass lie on a maze of islands and along a coastline protected by granite mountains. These mountains hold moisture along the coast, which combines with the geology to form a land of huge trees and a habitat for some of the most abundant wildlife left in the country. “ -The Book of the Tongass

Introduction

Nestled in Alaska’s southeast panhandle under the shadow of majestic mountains and awe-inspiring glaciers lies Juneau, Alaska’s capital and third largest city. Just under 31,000 people call Juneau home, and for good reason – where else can you hike through a lush rainforest, view some incredible wildlife, see glaciers, have dinner at a four-star restaurant followed by a night at the symphony – all in one day? For the traveling photographer, Juneau is an idyllic destination with a lifetime of subject matter.

Location and Climate

Juneau is located 900 miles north of Seattle with several scheduled flights arriving daily. For the flexible traveler, the State of Alaska maintains an excellent ferry system that connects cities as far south as Bellingham, Washington with Alaska’s coastal communities. A majority of travelers to Juneau, however, arrive on one of the many cruise ships making their way up and down the inside passage. Just don’t plan on driving there – Juneau has no road access in or out making it truly unique among U.S. state capitals.

Juneau’s climate can be classified as mild maritime with rather comfortable year round temperatures. Average summer days are in the 60s while winter temperatures average in the 20s, making Juneau warmer than some mainland U.S. cities. Being in the middle of a temperature rainforest, Juneau does have its share of wet and overcast days, as parts of the area can average over 100 inches of rain per year. Don’t let the prospect of rain discourage you – it is this abundance of rainfall that has shaped and transformed this landscape into a truly unique and diverse ecosystem providing the travel photographer with limitless photographic possibilities.

Photo Opportunities

Perhaps the crown jewel and most visited attraction in the Juneau area is the Mendenhall Glacier, a short 13-mile drive from the downtown area. Be prepared for plenty of company when the cruise ships are in town – arriving early may be an option for those who prefer a solitary visit. The most popular trail is the Photo Point Trail; a 0.3 mile paved trail with a 10-foot elevation gain provides an unobstructed view of the glacier’s face. This easily accessible trail offers interpretive signs along the way highlighting the local geology, flora and fauna. The one drawback, however, is that a majority of photographs of the glacier are shot from this vantage point. For a unique view, try hiking the East Glacier Loop – a 3.5-mile trail with 400 feet of elevation gain. There are several vantage points that overlook the glacier and Mendenhall Lake, allowing some distinctive and impressive views.

For a less challenging hike, the Moraine Ecology Trail (1.5 miles) allows access to the shores of Mendenhall Lake, which is often scattered with icebergs that have calved from the face of the glacier. A wide angle lens can exaggerate perspective providing dramatic photos, while a telephoto lens can isolate individual icebergs and parts of the glacier, and produce some interesting photos of a dynamic landscape that changes by the hour.

In July and August, the Steep Creek Trail is not to be missed. Spawning sockeye salmon are plentiful in the creek offering an abundant food source for the local bears. There are several raised sections of the trail that provide excellent viewing of these magnificent creatures. Since the bears are relatively close, a mid-range zoom (the faster the better) is more than adequate. In addition to close-ups, don’t forget some wider environmental portraits showing the bear’s habitat. One word of caution: although these bears are conditioned to visitors, common sense always applies in bear country. Bears deserve respect and do not like surprises – hike with partners, make noise, stay on the trail, be patient and you will most likely be rewarded with memories that will last a lifetime. For more information on the Mendenhall Glacier, visit the USDA’s site.

The city of Juneau contains over 140 miles of hiking trails in the heart of the Tongass National Forest, a 17 million acre temperate (or mid-latitude) rainforest home to an abundant variety of plants and wildlife. From the grand vista to the intimate landscape, photographic opportunities are literally everywhere you look. Again, do not let the inevitable rain discourage you – get some quality rain gear for yourself and your camera (shower caps work well in a pinch in place of commercial rain covers), get out there and embrace it. The rain minimizes contrast in the forest, beautifully saturates the lush colors and creates very moody landscapes. Photographers with macro equipment will delight at the wealth of mosses, lichens, plants and wildflowers that call the Tongass home. One thing for sure – bring a tripod and cable release, and use mirror lock-up if your camera has one as low lighting conditions will likely require very long exposure times. For bird photographers, southeast Alaska provides the ideal habitat for 50% of the world’s bald eagle population. To get a unique perspective of the Tongass, there are many sightseeing boats available that can provide viewing opportunities of humpback and killer whales, Stellar’s sea lions, and harbor seals. Try to arrange for a photo-specific tour since many captains will arrange to stay at a specific location longer than a generic tour providing ample photo opportunities.

Photographers interested in cityscapes will most certainly enjoy Juneau. Dubbed the “Little San Francisco”, Juneau is a sophisticated cosmopolitan city with rich history, interesting architecture, a bustling waterfront, and local native influences. Another popular attraction is the Mount Roberts Tramway that provides a 2,000-ft. ride to an observatory on Mount Roberts. At the top, look for bald eagles, marmots and the comical raven, a bird deeply rooted and respected in the native cultures. On clear days, the tram offers breathtaking views of Gastineau Channel and the nearby Chilkat Mountain range. For history buffs, Juneau’s roots are steeped in mining and there are several museums, statues and exhibits that depict the harsh life of past gold seekers. Every two years in June, the city hosts Celebration, which brings together the cultures of the Tlingit (pronounced KLINK-it), Haida (HY-dah), and Tsimshian (SIM-shee-anne) natives, which have a rich history in southeast Alaska. There are very colorful parades, traditional music, dance demonstrations and artwork exhibits. Before photographing, however, be sure to check for any restrictions as many native cultures have strict rules pertaining to photography. If you intend on using Juneau as a photographic “base-camp”, seriously consider planning around this wonderful event.

To escape from the relative bustle of the downtown area, consider renting a car and driving out Juneau Veterans’ Memorial Highway, referred to as simply “The Road” by locals. There are many picturesque harbors and coves that can be explores as well as the Mendenhall Wetlands and the Shrine of St. Therese (a religious retreat open to the public with gardens, a lodge and beach access). The Road ends at mile 39.5 at Echo Cove, a popular spot for boaters and kayakers. A clear night can offer some dramatic sunsets accented by the Chilkat Mountain range to the west.

Advisories

Traveling to Juneau is quite easy, but there are some precautions one should keep in mind. There is an old saying regarding weather in Alaska – “If you do not like the weather, wait 5 minutes and it will change”. Come prepared with different layers that can be interchanged depending on the weather and rain conditions. Avoid cotton clothing – cotton has a tendency to trap moisture that in cool, damp environments quickly can lead to hypothermia. If you plan on exploring local trails on your own, get a quality, detailed map or chart of the area, and let someone (hotel staff, police, rangers, etc.) know where you are going and when you plan to return. Be sure to ask locals about trail conditions (particularly in early spring when avalanche danger in high). The local people are extremely friendly and who knows, you may just find a hiking partner to travel with. Keep in mind that cell phone reception may be reliable in town but once out on the trails little or no service is to be expected. As mentioned before, all of Juneau, even the downtown area is bear country and take necessary precautions to avoid surprising them. Always carry a well-stocked first aid kit, survival whistle, fire-starters and spare clothing just in case.

Juneau is a wonderful travel destination for photographers interested in landscapes, nature, cityscapes, history and cultural events. Alaska certainly lives up to its nickname as being the last frontier and the southeast panhandle is a truly unique part of this world that will surely provide memories and images to remember for many years to come.

About the Author

More of Dan Kehlenbach's work can be found in his PBase gallery

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