White Sands National Monument is a gem. And like a gem it’s small and easy to overlook in a remote area of New Mexico far from better-known photo locations and major transportation hubs. Even as you pass through its gates White Sands won’t yield its beauty to the casual photographer.  You have to look closely to discover its many facets. But photographers will be enchanted if they overcome the travel challenges, allow time for exploration, and enjoy a little sand in their shoes.  So much so in fact, they will be reluctant to leave when the gates close each night, and will strive to be on hand each morning when they reopen.

GETTING THERE

Located on Highway 70 between Alamogordo and Las Cruces, White Sands National Monument is accessible only by a single gated entrance.  Due to its proximity to the White Sands Missile Range, Highway 70 experiences frequent short closures for safety during missile tests.

Open hours of the monument vary with the season, and it’s best to check their web site at www.nps.gov/whsa for details.  In general terms the gates don’t open till well after sunrise, and you have to leave the area each day shortly after sunset.  I’ll talk more about that in a moment in terms of shooting strategies.

IT’S NOT SAND

The stark beauty and coloration of the dunes are due to geology, and in fact it isn’t “sand” as we know it on a beach.  It is actually powdered gypsum that once resided in the surrounding terrain, where it is dissolved by rain and carried into Lake Lucero adjacent to the dunes. In the lake it forms selenite crystals in dry periods, then is weathered into fine particles that are carried by the wind to form the familiar dunes.

The usually dry Lake Lucero lake bed is within the monument boundaries, but the only access is via the nearby closed missile range.  Ranger-guided tours are available once a month, but preregistration and a small fee are required.  The photography is interesting if challenging, but even so the tour is quite worthwhile when it corresponds with your visit. Visit the White Sands site for schedules and arrangements to join a tour.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Camping is virtually non-existent in the monument, so if that’s your preference look into the three other opportunities within driving distance.  I’m especially fond of Oliver Lee State Park roughly 45 minutes away via Alamogordo and highway 54.  Early morning photography at the park is superb, and the hiking trails provide even more opportunity.  Lots more information is available at: www.alamogordo.net/recreation_attractions/oliver_lee_memorial_state_park/

For a broader view of other accommodation opportunities visit the Alamogordo web site at: www.alamogordo.net/   When weather is threatening, motels and hotels are available reflecting a range of prices and comforts.

And dining?  What can I say?  Diverse cuisines are available in Alamogordo, but I’m still touring the quality Mexican restaurants scattered through town.

SHOOTING STRATEGIES

The most important element of my shooting strategy for White Sands is time. It takes time to get acquainted with the features and zero in on promising locations. It’s not that I’m trying to be vague about specific spots. Instead, I’m reflecting the fact that dune photography is changeable, with features being altered by every windstorm and the recent activities of other visitors.

I prefer shooting in the late fall through early spring when sunrises and sunsets correspond more closely to openings and closings of the monument, plus the sun is at a lower angle at midday rather than overhead. The strongest winds tend to occur in the spring, which helps overcome issues with tracks from other visitors. But also consider that you can spend hours or days waiting for a storm to pass and allow you to resume shooting in the dunes.

Immediately after a large wind, you can find trackless dunes right beside the road. But especially in periods with lots of visitors and little wind, you have to walk further and further from the road to get past the tracks.  The best combination is a morning wind to discourage visitors, followed by a calm evening with seemingly endless vistas of track-free dunes and great light.

In general terms, the best dune photography will be in the regions to your left as you drive into the park, but especially with lots of visitors on hand you can beat the crowds with longer walks to your right near the end of the drive.

The best walking is found on the exposed hard surface between the dunes. More importantly the west sides of the dunes are often hard, while the east faces are quite soft, even as they provide the shadows and steep slopes that give them form in evening light .  I prefer to walk between the dunes until I reach an area with lots of promising shapes and no tracks, then circle around to the hard side of the dunes to avoid leaving my own tracks and spoiling a great scene as I climb for better elevation and sweeping vistas of dune shapes.

Because of the prevailing direction of the evening light in relation to the dunes, I also find it best to stop short of the end of the road, then walk north in the direction of the Sand Andres Mountains to keep the light on my left.  That will help you monitor the developing shadows, even as you look left and behind you for sunlit views of isolated yuccas and other vegetation to use in shots facing south.

And in another nod to the importance of time as an element in your shooting, don’t be in a hurry to move on for more views once you find interesting dunes. As the sun approaches the San Andres Mountains and especially after it dips out of sight, the colors and shapes can become otherworldly.  Almost minute by minute the changing intensity and color of the light will transform a single view into a succession of new scenes.

But what about the rest of the day?  Midday light is tough, but surmountable if you enjoy shooting small scenes and even macro like I do. Tracks in the sand, shadows, details of sand ripples with sunlight turning individual gypsum crystals into glowing diamonds are but a few of the possibilities.

Morning light is quite fleeting, so you have to move fast as you look for large scenes, or scout promising locations the day before and walk directly to them first thing in the morning. I find morning shooting to be less about the shadows of the dunes and more about spotlighting individual yuccas and their shadows against “softer” views of the dunes not dependent on the setting sun for such striking dune forms.

PERSONAL SAFETY

Heat, dehydration and especially in the evening, navigating in failing light should be factors in your planning.  Carry plenty of water and protect yourself from sunburn any time you venture into the monument.  And even though it’s hot during the day, the nature of the desert is to quickly chill once the sun drops from sight. I always carry a light fleece jacket or windbreaker for the walk back to my truck each evening.

A daypack or a camera pack with room for food, water and a spare coat will be especially welcome for a day of shooting. But the trick is to shoot as late as you can within the park hours, yet still find your way out of the dunes in failing light.

I’m here to tell you that in low light all the dunes begin to look the same, and it’s quite easy to become disoriented. I’m perfectly comfortable navigating by stars, but only if they’re visible!  I’m also in the habit of watching my “back trail” so I can find my way out, but back trails are hard to find once darkness falls.

A better idea is to carry a head lamp for finding tracks, and at least a small compass so you can walk in the general direction of the road once the sun sets. Even better is to use a hand-held GPS. Not only will it allow you to follow your exact path back to your vehicle, it will also help you discover shorter routes back to the road, even if you have to walk a good distance along that to reach your vehicle.

NEARBY SHOOTING OPPORTUNITIES

In truth I often abandon the Monument during the heat of the day, whether for a great lunch in Alamogordo or to visit other landmarks in the area.  In addition to the features around Oliver Lee State Park, Alamogordo has plenty to explore whether you carry a camera or not.

The Space Center is as compelling to me as a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum or Cape Canaveral.  Railroad buffs will be enchanted by a visit to the Toy Train Depot, both a museum and a showplace for model trains. If you really want to escape the heat, drive a little further and explore the photo possibilities on hikes in the Lincoln National Forest.

Just be sure to return to the dunes in time for another evening of shooting in great light!

About the Author

Alaskan Hank Pennington has been a photographer for over 40 years, and with his wife Jan has run a successful photography business for the last 20 years. In spite of busy schedules they manage frequent travels to other locations with an emphasis on photography. Visit their photography studio website at www.kodiakfoto.com.

Editor's Note: Click this link to see more images from White Sands National Monument.